Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
